Two dogs on leashes greeting each other

Lifestyle

How to introduce a new dog to other dogs in your home

When you’re adding a second (or third, or fourth…) dog to your family, you want them to fit in with the pup(s) that already live in your home. While the goal is to make your dogs fast friends, it’s important to be prepared and take the right steps before the introduction. A smooth, positive first impression is the key. We'll walk you through how to introduce your new dog to other dogs in your home, setting everyone up for a lifetime of friendship.

Why a slow introduction matters

For a dog, meeting a new housemate is a mix of curiosity and fear. They’re naturally interested in new things but also wary of the unfamiliar. A rushed introduction can trigger a fear response, flooding their system with stress hormones and creating a negative association that’s hard to undo. The goal of the first meeting isn’t for them to become instant best friends — it’s for the meeting to be a calm non-event.

Think of it like this: every little stressor — a tight leash, a confined space, a favorite toy nearby — can add to a dog’s anxiety. Too many stressors stacked together can lead to a snap or a fight that seems to come out of nowhere. A slow, structured process minimizes these triggers, keeping both dogs comfortable and calm.

Before your new dog comes home

A little prep work can prevent a lot of problems down the road. Before the big day, take some time to set your home up for success.

First, remove high-value items like special toys, bones and food bowls from any shared areas. These can easily become points of conflict. You can reintroduce them under supervision once the dogs are comfortable with each other.

Next, create separate safe zones for each dog using crates or baby gates. Every dog needs their own personal space to eat, sleep and just relax without being bothered. This also includes setting up separate feeding and watering stations, ideally in their safe zones, to eliminate any competition during meals.

Finally, consider a scent swap. A few days before the introduction, give each dog a blanket that smells like the other. Let them investigate the new smell in a common area and offer them treats while they do. This helps make the new dog seem a little more familiar when they finally meet in person.

The first meeting: A guide to the parallel walk

The single most important rule is that the first meeting should never happen inside your home or even in your backyard. Your resident dog’s home is their territory, and even the friendliest pup can feel the need to defend it from a newcomer. The best way to introduce dogs is on neutral ground, like a quiet park or walking trail that’s unfamiliar to both of them.

You’ll need two people for this, one for each dog. Here's how to do it:

1. Start far apart. Begin by walking the dogs in the same direction but on opposite sides of the street or at least 20 to 30 feet apart. The goal is for them to see each other without feeling threatened.

2. Slowly close the gap. As you walk, gradually decrease the distance between you. Pay close attention to their body language. If either dog seems stressed, increase the distance again until they relax.

3. Allow brief sniffs. Once they're walking calmly near each other, you can allow a very brief, three-second sniff. It's best to let one dog catch up to sniff the other’s rear, not meet face-to-face, which can feel confrontational. After a few seconds, cheerfully call the sniffing dog away and keep walking. You can switch roles and repeat.

4. Keep leashes loose. A tight leash sends a signal of tension straight to your dog. Keeping the leash loose and relaxed helps your dog stay calm, too.

Reading your dogs' body language

Dogs communicate with their bodies, and it’s your job to listen. Knowing the signs of stress can help you step in before a situation gets tense. Subtle signals that a dog is uncomfortable include licking their lips, yawning when they’re not tired or turning their head away.

“Dogs use subtle signals to show they're uncomfortable long before they might growl or snap,” says Dr. Aliya McCullough, Fetch’s Chief Veterinary Officer. “Learning to spot a lip lick, a yawn when they aren't tired or a low tight tail wag allows you to step in and give them space to prevent a negative interaction”

More serious red flags include “whale eye,” where a dog turns its head but keeps its eyes fixed on something, showing the whites of its eyes. Another major warning sign is a dog that suddenly becomes stiff and frozen. This is not a relaxed dog; it’s communicating that it wants space and needs to be separated from the situation immediately.

Bringing your new dog inside

After a successful walk, you can move the introduction to the backyard. Let the new dog into the yard first, then the resident dog.Keep the dogs leashed at first and let them explore the space. If they continue to seem relaxed, you can bring them inside.

First, take your resident dog outside or put them in the car for a few minutes. This allows the new dog to explore the main living area without feeling watched. When you bring your resident dog back in, keep both dogs leashed and guide them through the house together. Keep the energy calm and the interactions brief.

For the first few days, or even weeks, your dogs should only be together for short, supervised periods. Use baby gates and crates to keep them separated when you can’t watch them. This “separate and rotate” strategy prevents them from getting overwhelmed and gives them time to adjust gradually.

Special considerations

Certain situations require a little extra care and management.

Introducing a puppy to an older dog

A puppy’s boundless energy can be exhausting for a senior dog. It’s your job to protect your older dog’s peace by managing the puppy. Use pens and gates to enforce mandatory nap times for the pup and don’t let them pester your senior. It’s not your older dog’s job to teach the puppy how to behave. If your senior growls or snaps, they’re communicating a boundary, which means you need to step in and manage the puppy more closely.

Introducing a new dog to a jealous dog

What looks like jealousy is often resource guarding — your dog is protecting their stuff, which can include toys, food or even you. The key is prevention. Remove high-value toys and always feed the dogs separately. If a growl happens, don’t punish it; it’s important communication. Instead, calmly call the other dog away to de-escalate the situation, then remove the item. For dogs that guard your attention, teach a “place” cue. When you’re petting the new dog, send your resident dog to their mat with a special chew. This teaches them that good things happen for them when the new dog gets attention.

When to call a professional

Sometimes, despite your best efforts, things just don't click. It’s time to call a reputable trainer or veterinarian that specializes in behavior if you see these red flags:

  • An immediate, intense fixation where one dog can’t be redirected.
  • Any fight that causes an injury, even a small one.
  • A consistent pattern of one dog stalking, cornering or ambushing the other.

A professional can help diagnose the issue and create a safe plan to move forward.

The secret to a successful introduction is patience. By going slow, managing the environment and paying attention to your dogs' communication, you are laying the foundation for a wonderful, lifelong friendship. The process may take days or even weeks, but the peace and harmony you create in your home will be well worth it.

The Dig, Fetch Pet Insurance's expert-backed editorial, answers all of the questions you forget to ask your vet or are too embarrassed to ask at the dog park. We help make sure you and your best friend have more good days, but we’re there on bad days, too.

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